Emerson and Green; Stone Town, Zanzibar

$120 per person per night, bed and breakfast

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Emerson and Green

Emerson and Green, now known as 236 Hurumzi, in Zanzibar Stone Town, was home to possibly the richest man in the Swahili Empire during the 1870s. In later history it became a place the British used for the payment of slaves. Today it is Stone Town's most famous hotel.

Emerson and Green– The Facts

Emerson and Green – The Detail

Contrived as a haven of opulent style and panache in the centre of the old town, Emerson and Green is a small hotel that achieves its helplessly chic aim of not feeling like a hotel at all. Recent extension and development means that there are now 17 rooms to choose from rather than the original seven, but choosing is not easy as each is designed with individual character and charm.

The old favourites are named after points of the compass; South is accessible over high wooden bridge, and provides a semi open air bathroom with views over Stone Town, separated from the bedroom by small private veranda. In East a lattice work wall provides an atmospheric dappled light and catches the breeze. All rooms have a memorably romantic bath and a sense of bohemian antique grandeur, but all guests should be aware that these open rooms that are so elegant during waking hours are also hellishly noisy during the Zanzibari night.

All rooms are prone to enjoy the languishing choirs of cats, cockerels and children through the early hours around midnight and then the distinct awakening of the Hindu and then the Muslim faithful at their own prayer times. The months from late November to March are usually very hot and humid, and you feel it here at the heart of the old town. The rooftop restaurant provides wide and airy views of the town and harbour, and excellent many course meals in an ethnic style. Guests gather cross-legged on cushions and tiny portions of a pre-arranged menu are brought one after another. The popularity of the restaurant and space constrictions on this cosy rooftop make it necessary to book at least on the day that you wish to dine, and it is worth arriving early to enjoy the cocktail selection as the sun goes down.

Emerson and Green – Our view

The key with Emersons (236 Hurumzi!) is to book the right room....in fact our view on E&G is that there are only a couple of rooms and if you don’t get them then don’t stay there! Dinner however is still fabulous, if a slightly more atmospheric than cordon bleu!